FEB 21st: Ssezibwa Falls

Today started out with a trip to meet Omutaka Nakirembeka Alan Waliggo, the head of the heart (mutima) clan and the Bataka's appointed chief of all the clan heads. It couldn't have gone better! The Omutaka was warm, well-educated, and very interested in collaborating. 

Not only did he offer to do what he could to help shape the project - which is moving toward the conservation of sacred spaces and stories, he shared a related undertaking - a program to take young Baganda to the origin places of their clans. What was even more wonderful was that he invited us to two events on Saturday. One was the seating of the heir of the deceased leader of the sheep (ndiga) clan, the other was to accompany youth visiting the obutaka of the cane rat (musu) clan. We agreed to be at the palace in Bulange at 8:30 Saturday  morning, and then headed off to Ssezibwa falls.

Ssezibwa is on the way to Jinja (the source of the Blue Nile), where two springs come out of the earth. In traditional Baganda culture, this fact is especially significant because twins are traditionally considered a special honor. 

So, 2 hours of a crowded matatu and a short boda ride brought us to the humble entrance station, where we were joined by a wonderful guide who led us up the falls. The plunging water is not associated with a particular clan, but is a sacred space for all the Baganda, kept by a woman who advises people and maintains a set of altars. 

Here, a common way to honor the gods is to throw an animal (usually a sheep or goat) off the top of the falls. If the animal survives the ordeal, the gods have given their blessings. If not, some further work or another sacrifice needs to be made. According to our guide, sheep lovers need not fear - too much - supposedly 7 out of 10 survive the plunge. In fact, he said that many of these creatures take a the dive a few times before being 'retired'. But, humans, it seems are not so lucky. The force of the water, he said, is so strong that it generally holds a man down for 4-5 days before the lifeless body comes floating to the surface.

The top picture is Vianney posing at the livestock drop-off point, as if he's just sent a goat on a cliff dive. To the left are offerings at the mouth of a cave where a sacred python is given eggs to ask or give thanks for blessings (the twin-spouted pots are associated with the birth of twins). Below is a dish showing the usual offering at local sacred places - cowrie shell money, coffee beans, and modern cash.